Indeed, back in Bangkok, I recall saying that more than a few times in starting a conversation... I forget where I left off last time but we ended up having a good night on the beers in Chiang Mai, in part with a random Irish (I hope you made it home Thomaes, wherever you went) a couple of nights back, leading to a bit of a sleep in yesterday morning... There was talk of going to see the tigers at the tiger park on the last day but a sleep-in followed by a misreading of train times meant we thought we were heading back to Bangkok at 1830, only to find later it was actually 1600... without time for tigers we did a bit more of a walk around Chiang Mai old town, ticked off a bit of shopping for the girls (the hill tribes specialise in making silver jewellery which is much to Eve's liking), and then after a spot of lunch it was time to load our kit into the back of a taxi ute, and off to the train station.
Once there we confirmed the tracks were in fact open all the way south, so no need for a bus to the next city first... the trains were again second class sleepers but this time with the bunks crossways instead of longways meaning we had a nice little four-sleeper "cabin" (less door) to ourselves. Loaded with drinks and a supply of McDonald's Double Cheeseburgers (the survival food of choice when available, not that Thai rail food is bad by Asian rail standards, but not to say it is good) we piled aboard and settled in for another amusing (hard not to be, with the company I keep) trip.
Given we left at 1600 we got a bit of scenery on the way south before dark set in, which was good as we covered all the rail line that had been closed on the way up and got some nice scenic paddy fields (ok, true, nothing new about that), leading into foothills and then a climb up into the jungle. I was keen to see what had prevented us completing our rail journey north a few days before and was initially a bit disappointed to see a couple of minor culvert repairs and a couple of small slips that had been cleared. The actual culprit only appeared when we got to the height of the rail line along a narrow ridge, high above jungle valleys, when we came across a work crew with diggers, dozers and trucks still working on the damage from the earlier rains... it wasn't so much that the side of the mountain had slipped, as that half the entire ridge had disappeared into the valley below, and they had obviously been filling with rock, dirt and concrete for several days to put it back... like I said, glad it was not our train that found it.
The trip through the hills was painfully slow... due to ongoing (but not as serious) rain I am guessing they were taking it very easy and there were a couple of pauses where I assume they were radioing (or sending someone) ahead to get sections ok'd before we went though. The rest of the trip was uneventful and thankfully much quieter and less bumpy than the train coming up. We arrived in Bangkok at around 0830, about three hours late after a 16-or-so hour journey, and took the first (non-dodgy) cab we saw to Khao San Road and my usual hotel of choice. After a quick feed the girls promptly crashed out for a nap (not sure why, I sleep on trains great!!).
Eve was still a bit shattered on wakeup so Lala and I headed (via a very interesting tuk tuk driver who gave us a few opinions on rice harvesting and (shhhh) the monarchy) to the (swanky) Central Mall for a look at a couple of bits and pieces Lala wanted and a general browse. Another tuk tuk back, and we met Eve for a look at the Khao San markets and then several Guinnesses at the (surprise) Irish pub where we conveniently found a replay of the ABs vs Saffas. After a spot of Thai and a walk in the rain (was sunny up north!!) we have now retreated to the hotel for a spot of recovery. The music is still booming from Khao San Road despite the fact it is a pretty desolate, rainy Sunday night... I am sure a few hardened young backpackers will be toiling the night away drinking in the pubs but it is still comparatively quiet here, being the rainy season until late Sept-October. Tomorrow I think shopping is in order and then we might find a slightly more classy part of BKK for a bit of dinner and a beverage just for a change... Counting down now, two more nights and then back on the big bird and off to join up with the wedding crew and impending nuptuals (not mine, obviously) in Bali.
Obscure Music thanks to Blockhead for drowning out train noise with some very soothing takes on various vintage tunes and some good tracks of his own. I was trying to think of an Obscure Music Reference involving Thailand and found myself back at The Mountain Goats (again, as so often happens)... "I remember the train heading south out of Bangkok and down, towards the water..."
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