Thursday, November 6, 2008

So then it was... Wednesday?

Yup losing track already... back in the net cafe... just braved the streets of Geylang again.. actually it's not so bad, being two feet taller and wider than everyone helps... mostly you don't get any hassles, although I was somewhat put out that the guy selling black market cigarettes wouldn't drop his price below $5. And a tiny little thing outside some dodgy club a few doors down made the mistake of grabbing the strap to my camera case to try and get my attention... She will likely stick to all the Chinese businessmen who are the usual clientelle from not on.

I have now confirmed that no matter what direction you walk in away from my hotel, the neighbourhood gets better... seriously.

Anyway, back to the beginning... slept pretty well, awoke and headed to town via MRT train, which naturally involved - a walk. Then got a cab to the top of the hill behind town (my memory is like a sieve at the moment) and cable carred to Sentosa Island. Mucked around a bit, got a wee bit of beach time, had a swim (SO good... except for all the floating trash... and visions of what the hundreds of passing ships going into the ports were dropping in the water..) Then had a bit of a lie on the sand etc, and before you know it the black clouds had rolled in and in came the rain. Earlier today around 1300. And then there was a thunder and lightning show that was pretty impressive, and I was forced to shelter in one of the ultra-touristy beach bars and get a beer and pizza for lunch ($35... ouch) and the rains and thunder continued on and off for the rest of the arvo as I explored the fort complex at one end of the island and checked out their artillery collection... I know you are all overwhelmed with excitement just thinking about it...

Following a cab/train back to my hotel I made the not short wander up the Lorongs to Lorong 35, where I was reliably informed there was a seafood place of some note, recommended by some food guy on tv who travels the world or some such thing... so I thought 'Ok, probably worth a look, and a LOT cheaper than all the seafood restaurants on the harbour' (understand that the eateries on Geylang Road are in keeping with the general neighbourhood... not flash... So I went up there and asked for the crab and they looked at me as I imagine you would if the 3658th white person comes wandering into your little food place asking for exactly the same thing the stupid food guy off TV ate when he came in... and so I sat back and had a Tiger as they went off to curse television food gurus and their countless zombie disciples.

Then in the considerable time it took them to cook my crab I started thinking... if indeed I am the 3658th white person to venture to grimiest Geylang and bimble in here, I wonder if in fact they have jacked the price up..? What is crab worth anyway, if you own say a "modest" little corner eatery in Geylang..? What are their overheads..? And then I considered the approximately $35 Singaporean I had left in my wallet to last me til I left... But "Nah..." I thought... "It's just one of the 500 little food places in this neighbourhood... they won't charge much... and it will only be a bit of crab and noodle... So then finally the not especially nice lady who appeared to be in charge showed up at my table with a massive PLATTER of crab and noodle and various other bits and pieces and I though "Oh no.." So I pondered what in fact it might be worth while I ate, and indeed it was not too bad, although I have to admit I have always found the effort of smashing up your own crab and getting covered from head to foot in the little fella isn't really worth the pleasure of eating him... and while I pondered I thought about maybe running... after all, the old lady didn't look to spry, nor did her friend - although all the boys out the back did in fact have large knives... and then I wondered if in fact the gas station down the way would have an ATM that would take my card - doubtful.

Finally after coating myself in several layers of crab goo and eating most of the family-sized portion, I decided to risk it and play on my charm and innocent boyish good looks... so when the bill came, and I realised that appearing on TV had indeed given the grubby cook in his grubby kitchen the idea that he should in fact have a Bentley, I proceeded to pull a wad of money from my wallet that included both Singaporean and Malaysian... and I handed it to the old lady and smiled up sweetly like the picture of innocence and joy that I am. "No... No... No... Mal-ay-sien!!" she pointed her stubby little finger at the offending note and I inspected it in a confused manner... she called over the boss lady, and there was some too-ing and fro-ing... I searched my wallet for more money that only one of us knew wasn't there. I started apologising and making vague helpless noises (they didn't speak English so it didn't really make much difference if the noises meant anything or not...). Finally boss lady said "Visa?!" and to my shock I realised that the old plastic may actually be an option... And sure enough, around the corner of the turtle soup sign, there was in fact a machine... so everybody went home happy. Well, apart from the fact that in addition to embarrassing myself in front of about 10 locals trying inexpertly to east a crab and drop it all down my front, I also spent enough on it that I could have paid for another day and night in Singapore... but ANYHOO... at least I can say I have done it, and it was good crab.

So... tomorrow will likely be onward into Malaysia I guess... the rains to the north sound bad, seems the season is late, will have to take it one day at a time I suppose. I am not sure where the next internet access will be, possibly Kuala Lumpur. Til then I will be somewhere en route... take care all